TECHNO-UTILITARIAN

If you ever thought to get an easy, specific, one-thing collection at Prada, you were wrong or you never really got Miuccia´s aesthetic, yeah that famous "the beauty of ugly." In this this occasion the focus is on leisurewear/sportswear. Sounds easy, too easy for this Milanese brand, and you are right, because Miuccia this time sees his man (and woman, as it is a part of the show too, showcasing traditionally a pre-collection) sharing the wardrobe with a traveller, parachutist, explorer and even a cowboy. Utilitarian style goes hand-by-hand with active-wear, a galore of layered wardrobe made mostly by technical fabrics, shoes included. Not to mention the accessories of the season, at least for Prada, the return on the spotlight of the brand´s nylon backpack, originally invented by dame Prada in the 1990´s, the one that among other Prada nylon-accessories started to make a fortune to the brand. 

CLASSIC TAILORING IN GVASALIA WAY

Classic timeless tailoring pieces reinterpreted in the Gvasalia way, meaning boxy-square jackets, reminding us almost the rugby-esque shell jackets but with a classic coat –like knee length and double-breasted blazers with wide shoulders on one side, while on the other the total opposite thing, really tight, body-embracing silhouettes. Everything was spiced up with some inevitable Gvasalia humour seen in baseball caps, super-sized bright blue weekender, some rock-shoes with stacked wood heel and those "cannot be unnoticeable" Balenciaga white business cards tucked into pockets.

SOFTENED AND CONE-SHAPED

The sound of Neil Young´s 1970 song "After the Goldrush" accompanied Rick Owens S/S 2017 menswear collection that had been smoothed of the usual hard edges. Overall the clothes are gentler, softer-looking, regardless their complicated draping and exaggerated volumes. Through different techniques of his well-known draping, Owens always proposes new silhouettes, this time more cone-shaped, made of crisp, washed silk gazars and sturdy industrial cottons in a colour palette of off-white, rust, gold and black. There are his typical pyramid-shaped pants discreetly revealing the new sock-like sneakers, as a latest collaboration made with Adidas, and worn under cropped jackets with lengthened sleeves or really tiny ribcage-length bomber and leather jackets, making this way an effect of "lifting the torso", not to mention T-shirts and tops slung and twisted around the body and the shiny embroideries with radiant lines on loose black robes and sculpted tuxedo jackets. 

INDIVIDUAL

In this rave of "street-wear + androgyny" that really marked the fashion scene/industry in the last few season, Glenn Martens for Y/Project is probably with Demna and his squad, among the leaders of this fashion "movement". If Demna plays/collaborate with iconic street/sportswear labels, is Glenn doing in it on its own. He plays, most of the time in a quirky way, but resulting very interesting and unique by mixing, probably since before un-mixable and there´s nothing left out from this; from different volumes, cuts, cultures and fashion periods, materials too, everything in the name of genderless, after all he is a master in this territory. His human-being is romantic, poetic, but also sharp and tough. Actually I don´t really know, and this is what I like about this brand, the non-definable part of the brand, no boxing-thing, consequently giving an opportunity for a high-level of personalization to each individual, which nowadays, where you can see hordes of same-looking people, is a true value. 

ALWAYS SERENE

Anyone who knows and/or admire Howell´s aesthetic made of clean lines and quite colours will always go from the show and/or shop, after seeing the new collection, somehow serene. Brand´s collections are mainly build on signature pieces, this time remixed in a fresh retro vibe by the enter stylist Beat Bollinger. And this is not bad, quite the opposite, because after all who doesn´t want practical, easy, high-quality and timeless pieces in their wardrobe, that perfect amount of sporty-chic on daily basis. The extra plus here is that the brand each season offers also something new. This time was the allure of the Fifties schoolboy uniforms; our always bellowed high-waist pants with a front pleat and mostly cuffed worn with boxy, short-sleeve linen shirts or tank tops, or tailored shorts paired with all kind of knits, not to mention cotton raincoats and parkas for those chilly days.

TO ROBERT

Raf Simons made his return to Pitti Uomo in its proper, trademark way; he transformed Florence´s Stazione Leopolda into a 90´s inspired warehouse, "equipped" with electronic music, some coloured spotlights and an extent of distressed old mannequins turned into installation, showcasing a range of the brand´s past, iconic pieces, a sort of celebration for the brand´s 20^th anniversary. In that atmosphere, accentuated by the music from the "King Arthur" opera, Simons presented a collection that was not only inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe´s work, but was actually a true-homage to this giant of modern American photography, known for his really striking black and white images, among them loads of self-portraits, nudes, still lives and New York´s underground BSDM scene of the ´60s and the ´70s.

"I was contacted by the foundation, usually it’s me contacting the artists," Simons said right after the show. "They wanted to see if these could be transported to another field or medium."

The designer had a free access to the Mapplethorpe´s complete archive. He selected several images from different periods of photographer´s career, including portraits of Patti Smith, which he used as prints on every single outfit present on a runway. The result is a collection evoking New York underground mood, made of oversize cotton shirts, apron skirts over slim pants, apron tops and oversized, distressed sweaters with a very low neckline, revealing photo-prints featured on tops.

SOFTENED RIGOUR

We all have in mind the “less is more” while thinking about the aesthetic of Jil Sander, as a brand and not only. Rodolfo Paglialunga did, in terms of that, a masterly work this time. Not that the winter collection was less, but in the matter of Sander codes, this one is a true winner. He maintained that known essential, elegant and rigorous aesthetic of the brand, made, yes, by sharp silhouettes, but put aside the stiffness part and opted for a more comfortable ease. The collection, mostly composed by monochromatic assemblies, is a nice mixture of cool sportswear, boxy suiting and a touch of utilitarian, where you can among other find oversize A-line cut trenches, jackets embellished with multiple pockets and flood-cut trousers, not to mention the pieces with a charming twist, like outfits featuring an ombre effect, green and blue, or a charming blurred floral print seen on jackets, pants and suits. You need a cherry on a top? We got it! There are lovely rolled leather lunch-bag purses that were carried by hand. 

CONTEMPORARY AND FIERCE ELEGANCE

Extreme contrasts merged together in the same collection seems to be a common way to build a collection for many creative directors lately, regardless if it´s womenswear or menswear. Kim Jones in his fifth year at the French lux house re-explored his childhood in Kenya and Botswana that was his main source of inspiration for his debut collection at the brand. This time he used a traditional detailing from safari jacket and reinterpreted it in various tailored pieces to build a collection where, yes, the Saharan shades are predominated, but the whole travel and exotic spirit metaphor is "chilled" by a touch of eccentric, punk-inspired elements, patterns included, to turn the whole luxury experience into a contemporary and fierce elegance. 

THE SOFTER SIDE

Madame Woo and her daughter Katie Chung were interested into showcasing a delicate, softer side of masculinity for the brand´s S/S 2016 collection, made of loads of fluid clothes. Their key reference was artist LeWitt and his wall drawings, seen mostly in pieces with graphic, geometric patterns combined intriguing with classic menswear ones like pinstripes and checks. That was not only contrast present, actually through the whole collection was a constant a play with them, like in contrasting fabrics, combining for example heavy cotton and soft silk or uniting tailored pieces with oversized, fluid ones.  

MULTI-BRAND-ING

Demna Gvasalia continues to surprise. For the S/S 2017 he maintained the tailoring in huge proportions, especially coats, jackets and shirts, as also that underground, Margiela-ish flavour. So where is the surprise, you may ask? He built this collection, subverting any norm or so called "fashion aesthetic rule", through various collaborations with really iconic brands, such as Brioni that produces menswear, Champion, Canada Goose and Sergio Tacchini who are into sportswear, one and only Levi´s denim, bomber and biker jackets of Perfecto, Schott and Lucchese, Juicy Couture famous fashion tracksuits, while the footwear was up to Manolo Blahnik, Reebok and Dr. Martens. Yes, you read it right. Each was in charge to design and produce outfits for Demna, of course in the aesthetic canons of Vetements.

WORKWEAR AND GRAPHICS

The base or the starting point from which Mullins build his spring/summer collection was the work-wear and the idea how replicate a replication of a replication, meaning taking something really simple, as the mentioned work-wear reference, and re-doing it in a lots of different ways. Mullins proposes more than usual oversize, but still very androgynous silhouettes, like below-the-knee wrap-over skirt, roomy trousers, trench-like-coats and long denim shirts, in mostly pastel colours playing with different graphic elements, such as random splatters of paint or digitally panted graphics, like rose petal prints or meme graphic, not to mention the asymmetric top made exclusively by rose-petal appliques or those stitched on a white t-shirt.

TO MIND - EX INFINITAS

Lucas Vincent is an Australian designer who grew up in a surf-obsessed suburban Melbourne beach town, where the only way he could connect with "fashion world" was through magazines. It may sounds almost as a film-cliché, but this reality really stifled him, that´s why he decided to experience big fashion capitals. After seven years living in in Paris and New York, gaining tons of experience by working with leaders of the fashion industry, Lucas returned to his country and established his own menswear brand, Ex Infinitas. He merged the over- and always-present surf motif, especially the ´70s surf culture with minimalism and a modern, punk.
Why some fashion experts named Ex Infinitas as an Australian answer to Vetements, I don´t know. Maybe the reason is in that cool factor, but that´s something that cannot be named, because elusive and nonchalant. Or it is somehow a "common" source of inspiration that Vetements found it in "gopnik", a Russian term for a lower-class, typically post-Soviet male, while Ex Infinitas is into "bogan" that in Australian means someone with really bad taste or no taste. Is there really always a need to put everything and/or everyone into a certain box? No, please. When something is great, works and has potential, like here, that´s it. Leave it to breathe, to evolve. This is real. Truly, no bullshits. Even with his presentation, not a classic showcase, but a lookbook with a story, photographed by Fabien Montique, the one who has been working with Kanye west since 2012, not to mention the brand Off-White and the video directed by Jason Last. How we may call it? A real debut.

OLD CLOTHES, NEW OWNERS

No, it´s not about second-hand, well, not literally, but the main inspiration for Matine Rose while making this S/S 2017 collection came exactly from there. Actually she was interesting in clothes with "previous owners" and how they change context and meaning with new, different owners. That´s why she cut the clothes to look like they´ve been owned before, by enlarging and exaggerating their proportions and at the end creating unusual combinations, like a snakeskin leather jacket over a sporty polyester top, sporty socks worn over heeled loafers or a retro-style jumper tucked in her already-known oversized denim pants. Every piece has a badge with a name on to give us even more the feeling that this clothes had a previous owner, but they are "ready" for a new one, regardless if it´s a boy or a girl, a teenage or an old men.

MENSWEAR DEBUT

When we think of Stella McCartney, in terms of a brand, we get immediately these adjectives in mind: easy, functional, effortless-cool, cruelty-free (more than just a fur-free) and with that menswear inspired flair. What we get when think about this brand in terms of doing menswear? After announcing it this summer, well, hurray men, here it is, a first official one, presented on 10 November. So, about adjectives here: khm, definitely easy, practical with tailoring and graphic-part, in our opinion a bit too much-used. Fleetingly can be the same as her womenswear, but we are missing for now that effortless, because there is (too) much of cool, looking like a (too) forced one. After all is the first one and here we are of her cropped and also “carpenter” pants, Prince of Wales check overcoat, mackintosh raincoats, double-breasted suit and parka. The collection is already available for pre-order on the brand´s official website, while the collection will be delivered in shops between December and January. 

IN SHORT

Is it possible to recap this 59-looks menswear collection in just few lines? Absolutely. A tonal patchwork-play, patterns based on photo floral tapestry, camouflage, deconstruction and different knitting technique, flowing silhouettes are key ingredients of DriesVan Noten S/S 2017 collection. We are especially fond in very roomy high-waisted pants, his well-known belted trench coats and most of the outwear that feature asymmetrical closures.

RELAXED RIGOR

Can you imagine contrasts like the Buddhist monks` "uniform" and the military clothing to join together in a new, harmonious unity? Take a look at this menswear collection by Lucio Vanotti, where the relaxing-side goes handy by hand with the rigorous one, if you are not convinced.  The result is an almost raw-purity defined by the ankle-length roomy coat or the she same length, double breasted bathrobe-like one clinched at the waist by a leather belt, oversize varsity wool jacket, while the other are lean and long, some of them sleeveless worn over narrow trousers, shorts or wide-leg ones. 

EASY CHIC

Even though the oversize white T-shirts with an “IN” written on in big capital letters (designed and produced by the artist Wolfgang Tillmans) that many fashion show attendees wore, as also the designer itself urging people to register to vote to remain in the EU, didn´t help, Patrick Grant reconfirmed again something that was never doubtful; he knows how to dress a modern man, making it look very chic even with a pair of his bellowed high-waist short-shorts and a roomy shirt. This 24-look collection in very elegant, Armani-type colours got everything that a man is looking for, those quintessential garments like oversize shirts and tops in crisp cotton or linen, wide jackets in rounded shapes, denim pieces and his well-known high-waist bottoms. The only thing here that maybe tries you, dear men, to dare are those white or black Mary Janes, but they put an extra thumbs up to every look in my opinion.

AN ODE TO CHICNESS

If you don´t mind some overly-done pieces like puzzle-like patchworks seen on leather jackets, some sweaters and even on shirts, the collection would be a really an ode to chicness. Especially in love with the oversized balloon trousers cinched in the waist or the wide-leg suede ones, not to mention comfortable double-breasted suits and silk trenches. Tomas Maier´s slouchy and elongated lines for the summer 2017 are a true winner, especially when monochromatic or not playing with drastic contrasts. Dear men, take some notes.

SYNERGY

We could easily say that Joseph winter menswear collection designed by Mark Thomas is a mirror-one to the womenswear pre-fall 2016 collection designed by Louise Trotter. They both got inspired by the Pony Kids” by Perry Ogden and Nineties indie bands. They both used same colour palette, same materials and patterns, not to mention the almost identical flair the both collection have. We really adore how the contrasts in almost every single look played really well together and here is not only a talk about matching different materials, like mohair and neoprene, but also to merge different words and eras allure altogether. From these we can only read one, certain thing that there is an excellent creative synergy between the two head designers, bringing up great results for the fashion house. 

ESSENTIAL

One of true "members" of season-less fashion, the fashion made from super-luxurious materials, perfect-cuts and timeless shapes are definitely René Storck. During the F/W 2016/2017 Berlin Fashion Week the Frankfurt-based designer presented on purpose in total 14-looks that excellently showcase his Neo-Classically aesthetic, where the lines between genders are almost blurred, where each garment is hand-worked and where the base-essence is in the clothes, as it should be. Meticulously made essential pieces with special details made from outstanding fabrics that anyone should invest in.